Total Archaeology @ Tel Akko

So, what are we doing here?  Seventy students from all over the U.S. and other places in the world and more faculty, staff and others are digging.  Here we sit in the city of Akko, north of Haifa.  Well, actually we are across the harbor from Haifa.  We are excavating a Tel, an accretion of levels of civilization that goes back to the early Bronze Age that was once the original city of Akko and now sits in the city’s midst.

We aren’t even the first ones to excavate here.  Moshe Dothan excavated this tel on and off from 1973 into the 1980s.  In some places we are re-excavating what he already dug.  Why? Because he didn’t publish his findings and all we have are his notes and maps and drawings, which we are trying to decipher.

In other places, we are excavating where no one has gone before.  Well, the original inhabitants went there, but no one has excavated there yet.

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Total Archaeology

The site contains Greek, Persian, Iron Age and Bronze Age remains.  During the Iron Age, this city was not part of the Kingdoms of Israel and Judea, but was Phoenician, part of the complex of cities to the north which include Tyre and others.  The approach to this excavation is called Total Archaeology because it includes more than just digging.

Not Going to Caesarea

We didn’t go to Caesarea yesterday.  We didn’t really go anywhere.  Some of the students had a tour of the Akko Baha’i Temple and Gardens, but mostly we were just here.  They didn’t want us to leave the city.  So we didn’t. Some caught up on homework, some slept, some read, some strolled around the old city.

What is it like in Israel right now?  I can’t speak for anywhere but here, I only know first hand about Akko.  Yesterday I walked to a falafel stand owned by Arabs who were probably fasting for Ramadan.  I ordered a falafel and had my Hebrew corrected by a young man with a smile.  We ate on the patio, outside.  Arab citizens of Akko are observing Ramadan and breaking their fasts at sundown at Iftar.  Yesterday was Shabbat, the sabbath and families were strolling around town.  Their biggest concern was finding water because it was very warm.

Akkoans go to the market, they go to the beach, they go to work.  Not much is different here, but of course it is.  Continue reading Not Going to Caesarea

Unusual Events of the Day

The bus was late yesterday.  When it did arrive, the driver was a bit upset.  A woman in a lefthand turning lane had suddenly gone straight rather than turn and he had had to slam on the brakes.  There was a little damage to the driver’s side of the bus, but nothing much.  They exchanged insurance info and he asked what happened. She said the GPS told her to go straight.  Israel or the U.S. some things are the same.

We started digging yesterday. IMG_0093 Pulling up lots of pottery. Not surprising as a second name of Tel Akko is Tel of Sherds. The place is just covered with them and they are mixed in with all the dirt. I’ve been hauling buckets and screening dirt.  A two-handled screen atop a wheelbarrow gets shaken to remove all the loose dirt. Then the diggers sort through what is left for pottery, animal bone, shells, iron slag and perhaps something cool. What could be cool? Loom weights – little ceramic globs with holes in them that are used in weaving, iron projectile points, highly polished and painted Greek pottery, a carved ivory figure would all be cool and all have been found on the Tel so far, but not in the screens.

What do I find?  Broken pieces of pottery ranging in size from less than half an inch to hand sized. Shells ranging from tiny snail shells to large, 2-inch, scallop shells to spiny dye murex shells. These are the ones that the “royal purple dye” comes from. And more sherds. Sometimes little pieces of Greek looking pottery, sometimes a handle, but so far, nothing of much note.  But I have faith.  Everything eventually ends up in the screens.  Something really cool will pop up, appear, emerge.

Yesterday was unusual in another way. After dinner, one of the staff, Nick Pumphrey, Claremont Graduate University, successfully defended his dissertation. His advisor is here and the defense took place via Skype. So a new Ph.D. takes his place in the Academy today. He doesn’t look any different than yesterday, but his wife looks much happier.

There and Back Again

Well, here I am in Israel again, at Tel Akko.  I wasn’t able to join the Total Archaeology at Tel Akko Project last year, so I was very interested in seeing what changed and what didn’t.  We are once again staying at the Israel Nautical Academy, a boarding school for students wishing to either enter the navy or join the merchant marine.  The school is mostly empty in the summer, so we fill most of two dorms.  There are more of us this year than ever before — lots of students, returning students, staff and faculty.  Total Archaeology at Tel Akko is a joint project of Penn State and Haifa University with Anne Killebrew, associate professor of classics and ancient Mediterranean studies, Jewish studies and anthropology, Penn State, and Michal Artzey, professor emeritus, coastal and underwater archaeology, Haifa University.

group of students standing and listening
Students in the Total Archaeology Project at Tel Akko listen while Nick Pumphrey of Trinity College explains basic tool use.
Nick Pumphrey of Trinity College explains basic tool use.
Nick Pumphrey of Trinity College explains basic tool use.

Students come from all over, but groups come from Penn State, University of Massachusetts at Amherst, Trinity College and the Claremont Colleges Consortium. Right now we are just beginning to get over jet lag.  Continue reading There and Back Again

Of Ants, Audio-Visuals and Science Writing

In most cultures, when the queen dies, the next closest relative takes the throne, but then in human royalty, the fate of all reproduction does not rest on the new queen (or king).  Among Indian jumping ants, when the queen dies, the females compete and the winner changes hormonally and physically and becomes a Gamergate.  She supplies all the fertile eggs for the brood.

That little tidbit is what I learned from Matt Shipman, a science writer from North Carolina State University during a one-day workshop in science writing.  Continue reading Of Ants, Audio-Visuals and Science Writing